Map of the Straits of Juan de Fuca highlighting customs clearance locations. Itineraries for getting to Clayoquot or Barkley Sound
If you have a boat that cruises in excess of 12 or 13 knots, this appendix is not for you. This appendix is aimed at people who have slow boats, like ours. For those in slow moving boats, it doesn’t take a Captain’s License to figure out that getting to Clayoquot or Barkley Sound can be challenging. The distance out Juan de Fuca is long, there are few stopovers, you need to clear customs, and the wind and or currents can prove a hindrance.
First you need to think about clearing customs. When entering Canada from the US, there are three primary locations that I know of serve this purpose— Tofino, Bamfield and Victoria. Victoria has a full-blown customs dock. At Bamfield, we have used the pay phone to clear customs. My guess is that there is sometimes an officer on duty at Bamfield. At Tofino, I understand you can clear customs, but only if you have a CANPASS.
General store at Bamfield. The phone used to clear customs is circled--Barkley, British Columbia. When entering the US from Canada, there are five primary locations that I know of, where you can clear customs when cruising this part of the world— Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Clallum Bay and Neah Bay. Neah Bay is listed on the US Customs Service as a Port of Entry. I have never cleared at Neah Bay, but assume many have. You probably use the pay phone. Sekiu (Clallum Bay) is not listed as an official Port of Entry, but for whatever reason, I was able to clear customs there (by phone) in 1996 when returning from Barkley Sound. Perhaps they just made an exception for us. Port Angeles is listed as an offical Port of Entry. I assume you probably use the pay phone near the head of the boat haven. I have cleared many times in Port Townsend and it is listed as an official port of entry. Every time I have cleared at Port Townsend, I have done it via the pay phone at Point Hudson. Last is Seattle. I believe if you clear in Seattle (never done it), you probably do so by phone from your marina (as long as you have payed your user-fee).
Patience moored at the Port Angeles Boat Basin. I believe you use the phone at the top of this dock to clear customs. Going out of Juan de Fuca you always need to think about currents and winds. Currents play a major role in the strait, running up to between two and four knots in most parts of the strait. My strategy is blunt—head west on the ebb, head east on the flood. Both Around Vancouver Island and Cruising Clayoquot contain specific comments on currents in Juan de Fuca. The predominant summer wind in Juan de Fuca is from the west. The wind can blow surprisingly strongly for a “summer breeze”. Be prepared for anything from glass-calm waters to gale force conditions. For sailors, if the westerly acts up, it can make for a hellaciously slow journey westwards, or a hellaciously fast journey eastwards. The wind generally seems to come up in the afternoon or evening, so if you are looking to avoid it, leave early.
When we made in and out to Clayoquot—we took four days from Seattle. Here are some suggested itineraries to get you to Clayoquot in three long days: Itinerary #1 works going either way, but requires a CANPASS when travelling northwards as the itinerary requires clearing Canadian customs in Tofino.


Leg		 Approximate
Distance (nm)
Seattle–Port Angeles 65
Port Angeles–Neah Bay 50
Neah Bay–Tofino 75
  190


Itinerary #2 only works going south to Seattle, due to the fact you cannot clear Canadian customs in Sooke.


Leg		 Approximate
Distance (nm)
Tofino–Barkley Sound 40
Barkley Sound–Sooke 75
Sooke–Seattle 80
  195



Entrance to Neah Bay, looking southwest from the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Waaadah Island on right It is easy to adjust the above itineraries for going to Barkley Sound, just remember the only place to clear Canadian Customs in Barkley Sound is Bamfield. If you really haul-ass, you make it to Barkley from Seattle in a very long two days.
These are obviously high-speed itineraries designed to get you to where you want to go—no dallying on the way. There are some harbors along the Juan de Fuca “corridor” that can provide for shelter or just a shorter days run. In addition to the harbors mentioned in the above tables, you can throw the following additional harbors your itinerary potpourri:
Port San Juan (Port Renfrew)
Sekiu (Clallum Bay)
Sequim
Victoria
Port Townsend
You can see all as indicated by the hyperlinks, I have visited all these places and written about most. Good luck getting there. Either sound is well worth the time and effort.











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