Chapter 6: Gale Warnings & Rip Tides
The next morning we rise early and head out.
We are
hoping to get Port Townsend
(60+ nautical miles), but will settle with either Port Angeles or Sequim
.
We start off motorsailing.
I am looking forward to today as I have never sailed down the
southern side of the strait in clear weather. At about 11.30 AM,
the westerly picks up with a vengeance. In about half an hour
we go from very light conditions to probably 25 knots of wind
and large 4 - 10 waves. We are sailing with a single reefed main
and about 25% of the jib furled. Things get a little exciting
at times, but we generally experience a full-on rage of a sail. Occasionally
we get a bad series of waves and the boat starts to broach a little,
but I always get her back in control. Patience is in her
element and is performing excellently while the crew rock and
rolls to the Best of the Doobies. We are back out in the middle
of the strait and pass Race Rocks
at about 2.30 PM.
Wind and sea
conditions remain about the same for about three hours and we
average 6 - 7 knots with the current flooding in with us. Abruptly
at about 3.00 PM the wind dies to about five knots. We are disappointed
and start motorsailing again.
Our disappointment is short lived, and the wind is
back with us about half an hour later. We have a very enjoyable
sail for about two hours in twenty knots of wind. At 5.00 PM the
Canadian weather station upgrades their forecast to include gale
warnings for the Straits of Juan de Fuca
tonight. The U.S. weather
frequency continues to broadcast only small craft warnings. The
gale warning causes me concern. I have been in the straits before
when the Canadians have issued gale warnings - it was no joke.
In addition, we are going to miss slack water at Point Wilson
by about an hour and will face an ebbing tide setting against
a strong westerly wind. I have had to fight the current at Point
Wilson before and it too is no fun. We debate turning into Sequim
(a beautiful spot by the way), but I ultimately decide to continue
all the way to Port Townsend. In retrospect, this turns out to
be a huge mistake.
We sail on. As we approach Point Wilson, the seas
become increasingly big and the wind increasingly violent. In
short time, we are in very steep breaking seas. The magnitude
of these seas is not evident as we approach from behind them -
all of a sudden we are simply in the middle of a very foul sea.
We clip in our life harnesses. I later read a book that explains
bad seas always look significantly smaller from behind. At any
rate, we are about one mile northwest of the Point Wilson buoy.
Things are getting very rough and a particularly bad wave breaks
on the Avon (we had at least taken the precaution of taking the
engine off) and capsizes it. The Avon promptly becomes an unwanted
sea anchor dragging upside down off our transom. Due to conditions,
we are unable to stop and right it. Despite a raging wind and
a fair amount of sail, we are very making slow forward progress
due to the ebbing tide and accidental sea anchor. Because of the
condition of the Avon and the very scary nature of the waves,
I decide to go inside the Point Wilson buoy. I have read that
in these types of conditions it is possible to go inside the buoy,
cut the point very close and by-pass the worst of the rips. As
we edge in towards the point, the waves get much less violent
and we are again able to make decent forward headway. Henley is
below on the depthsounder and is calling off the depths, "27
feet, 25 feet, 22 feet, 17 feet
". Things are very scary.
We have no depth, have a howling westerly (the U.S. weather station
broadcasts that it is 30 - 40 knots at Smith Island) and are rapidly
running out of sea room. We are currently protected from the full
fury of the ebb by Point Wilson, however a mere hundred or so
feet off our port beam, the water is a maelstrom of rip tides
and breakers where the ebb meets the westerly wind. As mentioned
in the books, there appears to be a slight area of "calm"
directly in front of Point Wilson. I consider trying to shoot
through this gap, but ultimately decide that due to the lack of
sea room it is less safe than going through the middle of the
rips themselves. Jose does a phenomenal job of hastily furling
the jib while I start the diesel. With main up and the Mercedes
running at a record 3500 RPM, we tack and head northeast - across
the full ebb. We get utterly lambasted by three big breakers and
the prop comes out of the water a couple times as the Patience
gets rolled way over on her beam. Jose and hang on for dear life.
We survive, tack again, and try to make Point Wilson again. We
make 1.5 knots over the ground as we fight the ebb dragging the
upside down Avon which is amazingly still there.
We barely squeak by. Finally, out of danger, we right
the Avon in front of Point Hudson Marina
and it is miraculously
undamaged. The strain on the Avon and its towrope must have been
incredible. My already high opinion of Avon inflatables is increased
immeasurably. We dock at Point Hudson Resort, cook lasagna, and
drink strait shots of rum. Hours later I am still shaking from
the experience, but glad to be alive.
Lessons learned at Point Wilson? Pretty simple in
hindsight.
- If you are ever in a similar situation, opt for
Squim.
- When crossing open bodies of water don't be lazy
- deflate and stow your inflatable.
- If you end up in a similar situation, realize
you can find a measure of relative tranquility inside the Point
Wilson buoy - but carefully watch your depth.
- Always, always respect the rip tides off Point
Wilson. This is not the first time I have had bad tide related
experiences at Point Wilson, but it was absolutely the worst and
most dangerous I have ever experienced. Patience is a very
seaworthy sailboat that displaces 36 tons. It scares me to think
what these conditions would have been like in a lighter sailboat,
or even worse, a powerboat.
The following day we depart Point Hudson for Seattle.
We (thankfully) have an uneventful motorsail home in the currently
placid waters of Puget Sound. At about 6.00 PM we tie up at our
familiar slip at Elliot Bay Marina
. This ends what has been a
trip of a lifetime for me. I feel fortunate to have spent so many
weeks in a part of the world I love with my family and friends.
I look forward to many more voyages aboard the Patience.
Happy sailing and good luck to those of you that sail around Vancouver
Island.
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