Chapter1: Country Music and Shotguns
Our adventure begins in Sydney, British Columbia
.
We are on our way around Vancouver Island, by sailboat.
We have spent the last
two weeks moving the boat during weekends from Seattle Washington
to Sydney. I have spent months planning, preparing and provisioning
for this trip, and we are now ready to begin. My girlfriend Amy
and I depart Sydney Harbor at 7.00AM to catch slack tide. Six
or seven hours later we arrive in Nanaimo
. Unfortunately, Amy
has to go home, but Stephen and Fred come and join the good ship
Patience. Fred arrives by ferry, Stephen by seaplane. We
stock the boat with plenty of food and about five cases of Canada's
finest (well four cases and a case of Labott's Classic - per Fred)
and depart across the Straits of Georgia
under sail. We are blessed
by about twenty knots of wind from the north. From my previous
experiences crossing the Straits of Georgia, this seems to be
the prevailing summer wind. We set course for Pender Harbor
. After
beating about three quarters of the way across the Straits of
Georgia, averaging 7+ knots, the winds die and the sun begins
to make its descent. We fire up the diesel, and pull down the
sails. With the sun setting, we cruise into Pender Harbor and
drop our 66 pound Bruce anchor into some nice mud. Weary from
conquering the high seas, we settle into an 11 hour sleep, lulled
by the melodic sound of country music and gunshots (no joke).
The next day we awake and decide that Pender Harbor is a nice
anchorage, but certainly not worth postponing the trip for. We
continue and cruise on to Westview
- approximately 25 nautical
miles to the north. We motor into a brisk northerly wind blowing
down Malispina Strait
. Texada Island
is to our west and mainland
North America is to our east. I can't help but think that it would
have been a joyous sail if only we had been southbound. We end
up squeaking into Westview with barely enough time for Fred to
catch his 4.30 bus appointment. Fred is heading back to the big
M to finish up his summer contracting job. Bummer. Weather is
a roasting 80+ degrees Fahrenheit. To cool off, Stephen and I
inflate the Avon, mount the motor and scoot off for cool swim
in Malispina Strait. After coming back and drying off, I perform
the much needed task of alphabetizing the Patience's 124
album CD collection. While alphabetizing, I discover that we have,
not one, not two, but three copies of Joe Satriani's "Surfing
with the Alien". I guess I was paranoid about forgetting
Joe. Stephen and I cap off the evening by dining out - pizza and a
beautiful sunset over the mountains on Vancouver
Island. Weeks later I will be seeing those same mountains from
the other side of the island.
It's funny, I don't know why, but I have always been fond of Westview.
It's not a particularly beautiful spot, but it has everything
you need and everyone is very nice. You can't beat it as a provisioning
stopover on your way up to Desolation Sound
. Make sure you fill
up your fuel and water tanks and empty your garbage at Westview
- it will be your last chance to do so for some time.
The next day it is onwards and upwards. We depart blistering Westview,
and head north for Desolation Sound. For those that haven't been,
Desolation Sound is far from Desolate - quite the opposite. Noisy
American and Canadian pleasure boaters abound - Jet Skis, Ski
Brendellas, drunks, the whole gamut. Despite all the racket, Desolation
Sound remains a beautiful spot. The sound consists of a large
archipelago of islands located between Vancouver Island and mainland
North America. The sound is bordered on the north and west by
snowcapped peaks ranging up to 5000 - 8000 feet high.
The water in the sound is unusually warm by Northwest standards (most of
the salt water in the Pacific Northwest is a chilly 48 - 54 degrees
Fahrenheit) averaging about 68 - 70 degrees in many of the inlets
and coves within the sound. The highest water temperature we ever
recorded was 77 degrees Fahrenheit in Pendrell Sound one summer
when we were vacationing with my family. I believe most of the
sound is a Canadian National Park.
Back to the story at hand. We are motoring (there was no wind)
towards Desolation Sound - Prideaux Haven
in specific. On our
way, both Stephen and I take the Avon for a joy ride to the south
side of Savary Island
. On a nice day, Savary is wonderful. It
is like a little slice of the South Pacific hidden in the Pacific
Northwest. The water is warm and clear. The beeches are sand and
almost completely deserted. I would highly recommend stopping
in on the south side of Savary if the weather is good. Be careful
- it is shallow. Anyway, we continue towards Prideaux Haven. As
we round Sarah Point
we are treated to one of the most beautiful
vista's in the region - the entrance to Desolation Sound. I shoot
about a half a roll of film and somehow manage to screw up every
shot. We continue on for about another hour and navigate the tight
entrance to Prideaux Haven. We secure ourselves a tight anchorage
and set two stern lines. Our Bruce anchor is firmly set in a nice
mud bottom. Stephen calls the second stern line overkill, but
I call it prudent.
This is the beginning of three days in paradise at Prideaux Haven.
The first night Stephen cooks up what is now a Patience
specialty - extremely hot, curried Fajitas.
As Stephen says, "They're
not good unless they hurt going down and going out". Captain
and crew scarf down the fajitas while breathing flames out their
nostrils and swatting mosquitoes. We find the mosquitoes come
out religiously right after sunset. This makes sleeping outside
unpleasant if not impossible. On the second day, my father arrives
in his vessel the Too Grand. He sponges off our phenomenal
anchorage by rafting up alongside. Shortly afterwards, fellow
Patience crew members, brother Sebastian and friends Jose
and Callison arrive compliments of Kenmore Air. We successfully
use Kenmore Air throughout the voyage to shuttle crew members
to and from the Patience. The Patience is now loaded
down to her waterlines with food and crew. New crew members
do their part and head to Refuge Cove
in search of more overpriced
Canadian beer. One nice side-effect of the Canadian system for
distributing alcohol is that while overpriced in general, it is
at least overpriced consistently. A 6-pack of Labott's costs the
same in downtown Vancouver as it does is remote Refuge Cove in
Desolation Sound.
Time passes on, and eventually we are Prideax Havened out. It
is time to move on. We hoist anchor and spend about 45 minutes
coiling the hundreds of feet of stern line we had out. Our destination
today is Big Bay Resort
on Stuart Island. We travel in company
with the Too Grand to Refuge Cove and then they leave us
- bound for waters to the south.
We slowly sail north through
Lewis Channel
barbecuing hot dogs as we go. About half way to
Stewart Island our wind dies and we have to start motoring again.
We don't know, but this will be our last sail until we round the
northern end of the Vancouver Island and get to the west coast.
At around this time, Callison tells Jose that, "knocking
is no longer option". This is in reference to Jose's announced
and uninvited arrival in the head while Callison was there using
the facilities. Having learned the hard way that this was no longer
a 100% male crew, we continue on and hit Yaculta Rapids
at perfect
slack. We moor at the public dock in Big Bay.
Stewart Island
is at the north end of Desolation Sound and is
about half way up the inside of Vancouver Island. Due to the geography
of this area and Stuart Island's central location, the island
is surrounded by channels which are host to some very strong rapids.
These rapids are called Yaculta, Arran
and Dent Rapids
. If you
are from the Puget Sound region and are accustomed to the rapids
at the Tacoma Narrows or the gentle current down the Ship Canal,
you will probably be shocked. All of the above mentioned rapids
can flood or ebb at up to 10 - 15 knots of current. This means
that at full ebb or flood, these passages look much more like
rivers than salt water passages. It also means that if you are
a sailor, you only transit these rapids at very close perfect
slack. If you want to see an amazing spectacle, climb (be careful)
the mountain above Big Bay Resort and time your arrival to the
"summit" for full flood or ebb.
You will get a wonderful
vantage of the rapids that surround Stewart Island. It is interesting
to note that while Stewart Island is only about 28 nautical miles
north of Prideaux Haven, the water temperature drops to a very
chilly 45 - 48 degrees Fahrenheit. Salmon fishing here is supposed
to be great, although I have never landed a thing in all my years
of coming here.
We spend two days at Stewart Island. Our time is spent lounging
(the weather remains good) and watching eagles. Stewart Island
is known for it's eagles. At one point we are lucky enough to
see seven eagles in one tree. At about 5.00 PM on the second day,
Stephen has to pack up and fly back to Seattle. After the remaining
crew take much needed showers, Jose treats us all to a salmon
buffet at the Big Bay Resort. Despite being slightly underdressed,
an extremely good time is had by all. We end the evening by retiring
to the Wheelhouse Pub and playing a few rounds of Hearts.
Little did we know that this night would start another Patience
tradition - a fanatical obsession with the game of Hearts.
Overall, Stuart Island and Big Bay resort get five stars from
the crew of the Patience. The area has recovered nicely
from the clear-cutting a decade or so ago, the eagles and rapids
are awesome and the buffet at Big Bay Resort can't be beat.
The next day we awake at about 10 AM - still stuffed from our
food extravaganza the previous night. We leave at about 1.45 PM
aiming for perfect slack at Dent Rapids. It appears that I made
a slight mis-calculation and we end up battling a couple knots
of current through the rapids. Despite potential for problems,
all goes well, and within about an hour we celebrate crossing
the WNTL (The Whelan Northmost Travel Line).
This imaginary (similar to the Date Line and the Equator) line
marks the farthest north latitude anyone in my known family has
navigated a yacht. By 5.00 PM we have left Desolation Sound and
are mooring at Blind Channel Resort
.
Blind Channel isn't much to look at - a bit of a Motel 6 of marine
stopovers. Jose and I go salmon fishing and Callison and Sebastian
go off on a hike. While fishing, I kick-off what is to become
an annoying habit that prevails throughout this trip - losing
Buzz Bombs (lures) and not catching salmon. During the Blind Channel
fishing expedition I manage to lose two buzz bombs. After fishing
Jose and I head up to Blind Channel Resort for dinner. It turns
out that Blind Channel is run by a family (the Richters) of German
decent and the restaurant features primarily German food. While
I hardly consider myself a connoisseur of German food, I have
to admit that the food and service were excellent - though not
on par with the Big Bay Resort Buffet.
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