The Picture Adobe Photoshop Adobe Illustrator Off to Kinkos Again! Lessons Learned
Merry Christmas 1999!
In 1998 I made our first custom Christmas Card. That effort was an exercise in frustration.
During '98, I copiously took notes on the whole process, hoping to make the 1999 effort
less exhausting. This years card was surely easier, but still had its own set of
challenges. I took some of my own advice and used Adobe Illustrator for card layout while
still using Adobe Photoshop to manipulate the actual image. What follows is a step by
step description of how we made our 1999 Christmas Card.
For this years card, we had five photo candidatesall taken by other people, using
my camera. Amy & I narrowed the pictures down to the one you see in the photo to the right.
The picture was taken at Whitesand Cove, Clayoquot Sound. Clayoquot Sound is on the West
Coast of Vancouver Island, in British Columbia. My sister Wendy took the picture
on August 6, 1999. The Nikon was loaded with my favorite standby film, Kodak Royal Gold
100 and I am pretty sure the shot was taken with the faithful 20mm, f2.8 lens. The day
was so foggy, we couldnt see the Patience at anchor about ¼ mile offshore.
The image was converted from analog to digital using the Kodak PhotoCD process. As in
1998, the scan was done by Pacific Color (Greenlake,WA). While I didnt use them in this
case, I have used Kodaks own in-house film processing service to create PhotoCDs in the
past. Kodaks service is the most economical I have found, but very slow. The quality
of their scans seems to be quite good.
I learned the hard lesson last year that it is necessary to use the big PhotoCD scans
when you are planning on printing your image (versus putting it on the web). With this in
mind, I started by experimenting on our chosen image using a smaller (lower-res) and
more manageable version (512 x 768) to try and determine what changes I was going to
make to the big image. When you have a wimpy PC like I do, planning out your edits
on a smaller-res version of your image can make the process less frustrating.
Finally, I have a plan for what edits will need to be made. I open a base Photoshop file
with the properties shown in the image to the right. The H-2250 x W-1575 pixel dimensions
convert to a H-7.5 x W-5.25 inch image at 300dpi. I chose
these dimensions because I am planning on making a 5 x 7 inch portrait oriented card
(10 x 7 inches folded in half). This year, I wanted my image to run right to the
edge of the card, so I needed some overlap (referred to as "bleed" in the publishing
business)... thus the rationale for an image slightly bigger than the planned card.
See the section titled Adobe Illustrator
below for a jpeg of what the whole card looked like when layed-out in Illustrator.
A 5 x 7 card fits nicely into an A-7 envelope. For the last two years, I have
purchased our envelopes at a store in Seattle called the "Paper Zone". They have an
excellent selection of papers and envelopes at reasonable prices. The lady at our
nearby Paper Zone was kind enough to give me a flyer which explained
all the different sized envelopes that are theoretically available. I say
theoretically because not all manufacturers make all envelope styles in all sizes.
Below is a table of envelope sizes:
Envelope Name
Dimensions
4 Bar
3 5/8 x 5 1/8
5 Bar
4 1/8 x 5 5 5/8
A-2 or 5 1/2 Bar
4 3/8 x 5 3/4
A-6 or 6 Bar
4 3/4 x 6 1/2
A-7 or Lee
5 1/4 x 7 1/4
A-8
5 1/2 x 8 1/8
Leader Laser
5 3/4 x 8 7/8
After I create my base Photoshop file, I open the 2048 x 3072 pixel scan of our picture.
Our PC is so overwhelmed by this task, I have time to go grab a cup of coffee while it
tries to open the big image. When I come back with my coffee, the 2048 x 3072 image is
finally open. I crop the image and then resize it so that it fits nicely onto my
1575 x 2250 base file. I copy the image onto my base file and the start making
the edits I had carefully planned out on my low-res version of the picture:
When I am done with the above steps, I save the file in Photoshop format (16 megs) and
the start Adobe Illustrator. I am planning on doing the layout and type setting in
Illustrator.
I have found Photoshop a difficult tool to master. However, if my trials & tribulations
with Photoshop would be characterized as difficult, my efforts to get semi-proficient
with Illustrator could probably be categorized as a complete failure. I know Illustrator
must be an amazing tool, but I am sure having a tough time figuring it out. Oh well,
I struggle through.
The first few things I do are prep work. I begin by creating a new file.
After the file is open, I go into Document Setup, and change the orientation in
Document Setup to Landscape. While in this dialog, I hit the Print Setup button and
change the printer setup orientation to Landscape as well. After closing out of these
dialog boxes, I have an 8.5 x 11 landscape work place. I turn on Show Grid and Show
Rulers. Next I need to create crop marks that will show where the card needs to
be cut to its 10 x 7 inch size. To do this, use the Rectangle tool to create a 10 x 7
inch box that outlines where the card will need to be cut. To get the box in the
exact right location, it is sometimes helpful to reset the starting point of your
rulers. The ruler starting points can be reset by grabbing the inverted "L" ellipses
in the left part of the screen (right under the title bar). Once you have your
10 x 7 inch rectangle in the correct location do the commands Object | Cropmarks | Make.
The rectangle should be replaced by crop marks.
Now it is time to import the Photoshop image. There are several ways to get a
Photoshop image into Illustrator, I chose to use the File | Place command. I made
sure the 'link' checkbox was checked. By creating a link, you dont embed
the Photoshop image in your Illustrator file; rather you create a link to the original
Photoshop file. This way you can go back and edit the image in Photoshop and your edits
will be automatically updated in Illustrator (this was very helpful for me). Once the
image is placed into my landscape Illustrator file, I move it to the right half of the
work place. Now that you have the picture in place and have your crop marks set,
you can see where the card will ultimately need to be cut. To finish the face of the
card I use the Type tool to write Merry Christmas.
The face of the card is now done. I like to add a small feature to the back of the
card. This year it will be photo credits and picture of Barkley our dog (since he didnt
make it into the actual face of the card). I use Pen tool to create a curved path
at the bottom back of the card. After I create this path, I use the Path Type Tool
and add photo credits to the curved path. To finish the card off, I place an image of
Barkley shaking underneath the curved path.
Now that everything is in place, I test print
the card several times on our HP LaserJet 4. This is always unsatisfying as the printer
is black and white and always seems to run out of memory. I upped my memory
from 2MB to 10MB this year, but it doesnt seem to have solved the problem. Anyway,
printing a test print on the the HP 4 at least gives me an idea how things are looking.
Things are looking good, so it is time to head off to Kinkos.
.
It seems my best-laid plans go sideways whenever I head to Kinkos. It turns out that
all of Kinkos Macs have both Photoshop 4 and Illustrator 7 installed. However, the PCs
only have Photoshop 4 installed (no Illustrator). Fortunately, Illustrator for the
Mac reads Illustrator for Windows files (Thank you Adobe!). I pop in my 100MG zip disk
and open my Illustrator file on the Mac. I have no problems except the file is very slow
to open and I end up losing the special font I have chosen for the face of the card.
Substituting a new Mac font easily rectifies the font problem.
I do a test print on Kinkos Colorpass 2400 (last year I used the Colorpass 1000).
After a few small alignment problems, the test card looks excellent! I try test
printing the card on a variety of different papers. This year Kinkos has a new 8.5 x 11
inch glossy card stock that is pre-scored in the middle. Theoretically the
pre-scoring will make the card fold better in the automated folding machine.
I try the pre-scored paper and am unhappy with itthe printer seems to lighten up
near the score. I end up choosing Kinkos standard non-glossy cardstock paper.
This paper cracks a little when folded in Kinkos folding machine, so I choose to
fold the cards by hand this year. Folding by hand does not end up taking very
long and the fold looks much better than what Kinkos automated folding
machine could have accomplished.
I must be making progress! This years card was certainly easier than last, plus I think
it turned out better. Having a Zip drive helped out immeasurably. Using Adobe
Illustrator for layout and typesetting worked well. I really liked bleeding the
image to the edge of the card.
On the other side of the fence, my hardware is still sorely lacking.
I am hoping for a more capable machine and home
color printer for the 2000 Christmas Card. There is also still plenty of room
for technique improvements in next years card! This years card was still done at
300dpi. As a result, you can still see some fine grain. Next year I would like to try
400 - 600dpi to further reduce the grain. I also think a collage would make a nice
Christmas card. This way you dont have to go through the painful process of picking
a single image and also get to play with Photoshop masks.
I hope this step by step description was helpful. Feel free
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see our 2000 Christmas card.
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TGW.NET Merry Christmas 1999 was created by Tim Whelan.
All pictures and text ©Tim Whelan 1999.
For useage, please see my
copyright notice.